Complete and Utter Zebu

Most wine bottle labels say “contains sulphites” but, as well as grapes, there are plenty of other things in there too. How would we know, though? Winemakers may shove in anything up to 50 additives and preservatives without giving us the slightest clue what they’re done.

Among them might be not only enzymes, sugar, tannins and yeasts, but may also include charcoal, fish bladder extract (isinglass), copper sulphate, dried ox blood, caramel, gum arabic, eggs, milk protein (casein), gelatin, grape juice concentrate, wood chips and clay. Some add bentonite, an absorbent material to remove excess protein, the other use for which is in cat litter! Charming. Here is a list of such additives from the OIV.

Some of this stuff is filtered out before bottling, but it would still be nice to be told what has gone into making our wine. Not much chance of that. In America, winemakers are not required to list such additives while, in the EU, the wine industry is not only exempted from labelling rules but it is actually illegal to list these extras on the label.

The only retailer in the UK that says what has gone to make the wine is The Co-op. Its Cape Pinotage label, for instance, lists the ingredients as: ‘Grapes (Pinotage), Preservatives (Sulphur Dioxide), Tartaric acid. Made using: Yeast, Yeast Nutrient (Diammonium phosphate). Cleared using: Bentonite, Pectinolytic Enzymes. Closure: Cork.’

Bizarre to think that, by setting out the ingredients, the Co-op is breaking the law and risks the possibility of prosecution. As the chain admits, it “is technically illegal, but in the consumer’s interest”.

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